As most of you know, I’ve basically spent the last year of my life waiting to find out what I’d be doing/where I’d be living for the next two years of my life. The Peace Corps. has a funny way of keeping people in the dark about their assignments and really testing everyone’s’ patience. Well, I am happy to say that after a year of waiting in the States, and a month of waiting/having basic training here in Senegal I finally found out where I’ll be living for the next two years (and where I’ll be moving in a month)!! I will be in the city of Tamba..
For those of you unfamiliar with Senegal… The Gambia is right in the middle of Senegal and Tamba is at the north eastern corner of the Gambia (so it’s in central eastern Senegal). I will be living in the middle of the city with its 70,000 inhabitants… Should be interesting. I’m excited to see my apartment which I’m assuming will be pretty sweet since I’m 99% sure I’ll have water, electricity, a fridge, and a shower… I’m also really close to the regional house (kind of a retreat place for volunteers living in my region and each volunteer is entitled to spend 4 nights a month at the house) in my area, so I will get to see other volunteers and all that jazz. Oh, I almost forgot.. the best (read NOT the best) part about my assignment is that it is very very close to what was ranked the hottest city in the entire world. YAY. When I was given my assignment, a Senegalese guy came up to me and actually said, “So, do you like the heat? Because you are going to suffer!!!” (as he laughed in my face). Awesome.
So that’s a little info about my site.. Once I get there and start setting everything up I will be able to give you more info about what I’ll be doing.
As most of you know, or don’t know, I’m not quite sure.. Senegal is a predominantly Muslim country and therefore, the Senegalese people have been fasting for the last month in observance of Ramadan. This means that from sun up until 7:00pm they do not eat or drink anything at all, no water, no nothing… they even spit instead of swallowing their saliva. It is really intense.. and yes, I’ve been starving, but I tried to fast a couple of times and I could do it, but no water for the entire day was entirely too difficult for me. During the month of Ramadan, due to everyones’ thirst and hunger, very little gets done. Half the day is spent napping or laying under a tree sweating and then at 7:00pm everyone “breaks the fast” with coffee and bread and/or mystery meat sandwiches. Then around 9-10 everyone eats dinner and from what I’ve heard, in some of my friends’ houses they eat a second dinner around 1am. I am up every day at 6am so I’m not quite sure if that’s something my family does also because I hit the sack around 10, but I DIGRESS.
Anyhow, last month was Ramadan, and the last day of Ramadan is called Korite. Korite is a day of celebration and lots of food, all enjoyed in traditional Senegalese outfits (read, I sat around not eating in a white and gold Senegalese outfit. No worries, I took pics and will figure out a way to get them on the web so I can give everyone a laugh).
Now that Ramadan is over I will get to see how life is in Senegal when people aren’t starving.. most of the time. I guess this is also a good time to talk a little bit about Senegalese culture. Islam plays a very large role in Senegalese culture. It dictates the way most Senegalese and/or toubobs (read white ppl) in Senegal dress (conservatively from the waist down). It has been explained to me that showing your knees anywhere besides in your bedroom is the American equivalent of walking around with no shirt or bra on. Even when sitting your knees must be totally covered or it is considered very offensive. Conversely, women here walk around with no shirts or bras on ALL THE TIME. I’ve truly seen more breasts in this past month (living with four women) than I’ve seen my own in my whole life. Well… maybe.
This conservatism also dictates the way men and women interact (shocker!). No one shows affection here (except grown men who can walk around holding hands). No holding hands, no hugging, and definitely no kissing in public, even if you are a married couple. Women have their role and for the most part it is followed. For instance, men NEVER fetch water, be it from a well, from their sink in the kitchen, men will never get water because it is just a woman’s job. One of my older brother’s friends was over for Korite and called me while I was laying down to come get his cup and get him some water (for those of you that know me… you can imagine my face/attitude as I took his glass. Ugh!). Even though he didn’t live in my house and I don’t even know his name I had to get up and get him water because he’s a guy and I’m a woman, so it’s my job. Ahhhh, frustrating. The gender roles in this country will definitely get a lot of face time on this blog because they are going to be a major challenge for me. Thankfully, I will have to opportunity to work with a lot of womens’ groupements in Tamba (which is something I requested).
